LG Display (TV/Projector) Owner Thread

[Ronildoq]

Attempted the first calibration last night, failed miserably… lol turns out some settings requires changes… but thank god that’s all sorted out.

So started off with the first calibration, expert Bright room, for the living room, with the normal lights turned on. I proceeded with the calibration

I pushed the iris wide open, setting it to the max 10 / bright room mode, switching gamma to 1.9 and prepping the calibration for TV like day light viewing in the living room .

Also noticed that brightness and contrast need not be set, that’s auto as well. Only thing I needed to verify is sharpness setting. After checking through the sharpness pattern, I brought down sharpness from 10 to 0 on the display

All other settings disabled.

After connecting to the PJ AU810PB through laptop vide IP, it was a breeze, allowing calman software for 1D and 3D lut calibration

Grayscale shows

Very good numbers down to 10%, which is very good considering the iris is wide open with a power gamma of 1.9. Clipping below 10% but not too concerned as not that many content down Low.

A second profile I will set to push the calibration for deeper blacks , with the iris set to 1,2

Damn this pj is very versatile, I can do so many things with this PJ

Displaying the 100% white pattern confirms the Pj output is at 60 nits and

109% white shows 69.5 nits

Pretty good for living room with curtains windows opened / lights on

1D LUT Grayscale took approx 25m to complete

3D LUT colour calibration approx 1:45m

Now calibrating colours using the new aurora colour engine , 3D lut calibration

fixed grid 13 allows for 1728 points calibration. We can go higher but beyond that diminishing returns . So more of a trade off between minor improvements over time.

So easy, fast, accurate, save time…. This calibration with calman is the best I have seen so far

Tonight will attempt second profile, SDR expert dark mode . As my living room is not pitch black like a man cave, I found a gamma of 2.3 works best for me

Once I have completed, will review the calibration results and confirm with test patterns and video from spears and munsil. Once that is good to go, I will attempt the calibration for HDR …

Very syok! Love the quality of this pj !

[Wind]

Nice nice NICE!! The meter need to put so near eh?

[Ronildoq]

@Wind

The meter need to put so near eh?

Ya, as long as it doesn’t read it’s “own shadow”, that’s ok. Better accuracy as well, I find . Straight to the middle, tilted upwards

Will at least wrap up SDR today, then follow up again with HDR and LLDV

Need to evaluate the calibration results before I proceed further

[desray]

Measuring 3D LUT is no joke…if the results turned out well…then a big smile on your face…but there are times, it simply makes colors worse off! For SDR calibration, most colorimeters no issue but for HDR…I’ll pray for you

[Ronildoq]

@desray

but there are times, it simply makes colors worse off!

You are right ! I learnt that the hard way, previously. After tweaking some settings on calman, the problem went away.

Completed now, expert bright room for SDR , for daylight viewing. Fantastic , colours are accurate. Really good to have laser Pj in a living room, no need to worry about pictures getting washed out

Today can do expert bright room HDR.

I’m keeping the profile of “filmmaker mode” intact. That’s the most accurate out of the box picture mode to use, be it SDR and HDR . It’s good to benchmark this against the various calibrated picture modes

All attempts for calibration is done on isf expert bright and dark modes pushed for good black levels and cinema modes will be used to push for specular highlights and bright movies animation type material

The best way for now, is to use “lightning LUT” calibration mode, that is the fastest mode for auto cal to get at least the 26 point grayscale and 26 point colours dialed in . Each picture mode takes approx 1hr 15mins to calibrate

Once verified, can run a second round with higher number of points for calibration using 13 grid LUT calibration

Getting a hang of it now already……

Will share my journey here in HDR calibration, let’s see how good this calman software is, stay tuned to this one….

[Ronildoq]

Oh yes, confirmed 1 more thing, connecting to USA store on the LG allows for download of the Disney + app that works for HDR and Atmos DD+

Netflix is still not available at any country store at the time of writing. Maybe we will see it in a future update, not sure when LG will have this.

So IPTV, Disney +, YouTube , Prime video , channel news Asia etc all there ! HDR and Atmos is supported, no problem !

Don’t need any roku or Xbox series x to watch these programmes . This also means that it doesn’t allow for LLDV if you are using HD fury to spoof, because the app is on the Projector itself

It’s so convenient I’m getting lazy to turn on the Xbox series x

[Ronildoq]

HDR picture mode, it looks like the Pj has 7 pic modes for HDR

Cinema
Cinema home
Vivid
Standard
Game
Brightest
Filmmaker

Out of which, only 3 is available to be used for HDR auto calibration with calman , only

Filmmaker
Cinema
Game

Only above 3 modes can be used for auto cal. Since I need to retain filmmaker mode, I can only test cinema mode for HDR

So the HDR mode for auto cal can only be used for night viewing , to compare against filmmaker mode ( which is showing very good HDR out of the box)

Ran through the auto cal features , looks like for colours, it is using “Matrix LUT” instead. This is the only available option and method for calibrating HDR at the moment. The rest of the settings differ to SDR like rec2020 and EOTF 2084

Another fantastic feature is screen mirroring from iPhone to the big screen, so when gaming on the mobile or watching drama like viu, we can mirror it onto the big screen, no lag at all , very good

Picture looks fantastic when mirroring, compared to mirroring on the roku 2020. No horse run man this LG !

Here is the pic taken from brawl star game during day time with all windows and curtains opened new lights in the living room turned on. mode “SDR Brightest”,

The one below instead, is the auto calibrated “SDR bright room” mode

[desray]

@Ronildoq

Really good to have laser Pj in a living room, no need to worry about pictures getting washed out

Haha…now you know.

[Ronildoq]

@desray

Haha…now you know.

I was actually waiting for the launch of the new JVC laser. But I suppose the price will be right up there >$10k type of pricing

This version just under $6k and it is fantastic, the best HDR I have seen in a projector. Out of the box is already so good, jaw dropping HDR quality

It’s a very very big step up from my current PJ.

Tonight I will test the HDR and the torture scene , the horse scene from spears and munsil 4,000 nits and 10,000 nits version

[Foodie]

power bro. Happy for u

[Ronildoq]

Last night attempted the first SDR night calibration, turns out I keep getting error. Later I found out that delta errors for calibration targets needed to be increased so the autocal has more headroom to dial in the numbers to allow for a greater margin of error in grayscale. But further checks and I still had massive errors.

Finally, I found out that autocal doesn’t adjust the temperature and the iris needed to be wide open for the RGB to be balanced. Wide open is to set it to 10. However, when it is wide open, it becomes excessively bright. One way to solve this is through the use of “energy saving” mode , to increase the energy saving mode so it becomes less bright without affecting the “White balance “. Key finding

So nothing wrong with the autocal software, we needed to first set the temperature correctly before attempting any auto cal. This means getting the 2 point RGB high Low on the LG ( white balance) dialed in manually before attempting 21 point grayscale measurements and colour. All other processing should be turned off including adaptive contrast

One of the best things I love about this Pj is the advance controls available for me to dial in to whatever pic quality I want.

Just like a subwoofer, u have a parametric Eq, or delay settings, or high pass Low pass filters, volume knob etc, we Must have the controls to adjust, otherwise u know there is a problem, but can’t do anything = No Use . So no controls available = LPPL. Luckily this pj is versatile, I have all the necessary controls to dial in the PJ for night mode now

This is expected, we always learn along the way. I haven’t yet completed night SDR calibration, it is not so easy, not because the calibration is difficult, mainly because I needed to understand the interaction between the PJ and Calman software and what each control is doing to the end results , be it controls on the PJ itself and controls on the calman software

I think once we get the type of controls available for adjustment on the LG, it will be very hard to go back to other pj that doesn’t support this type of controls and adjustments for fine tuning , especially for people like me.

The good thing is, I’m no longer bored at home !! Always looking forward whenever I’m free to see what each setting does and gaining invaluable experience along the way . This is only possible, with the amount of controls made available for adjustment now. If not that many controls were available, u r actually left with no options and there is not much you can learn. U just accept it and move on.

[desray]

Welcome to the world of projector calibration

[Ronildoq]

Ya, lucky, if it was calibrated accurately, it is easier to tell looking at the screen, immediately we can tell if it is off . That way we will more or less know if we are heading in the right direction

A continuous read with the necessary patterns will tell us on the spot if things are off

The worse part is heading into the wrong direction and not even knowing about it then accepting it as it is… according to the software…

So ya, for those who need to use the autocal feature, there are some settings required before autocal grayscale and colour.

[Ronildoq]

Just completed the SDR expert Dark room, night settings .

What I have done is attempted manual 2 point, then use 1D lut 10 point grayscale, finally use another 1D lut 21 points for fine tuning the grayscale. All using auto cal to input the numbers in 2 point, 10 point and 21 point grayscale

With 10 point grayscale only , the first attempt

Below 10% grayscale, a bit of difficulty as you can see from the graph above, this was using BT1886 initially. Eventually a few rounds of looking, decided to go for gamma power of 2.4, and they looked assolutely stunning post calibration

Yes, not gamma 2.3! Because there is no option for gamma 2.3 on the LG. So instead went with 2.4, and the results were really satisfying

Was watching penguins of Madagascar, the blacks on the penguin fur, deep and inky like blacks, with iris set to 5, adaptive contrast set to high, dynamic contrast set to Low. Gosh! The pictures really pop, with no eye fatigue.

It feels as if I’m moving from 12bit colours to 16bit colours. It’s not over saturated, but very rich in colour. The reds are like Ferrari type of reds, like when u look at cars, some of the red paint with cars, looks dull. This one looks really rich, the first time I’m seeing the red logo on YouTube looking so rich and has so much depth

Whichever guy online doing review and who says this pj cannot give u deep blacks, probably hasn’t done his homework in bringing out the best from the PJ. The answer is yes, it can give u good blacks without losing shadow details . The meter reading won’t lie, you can see it with your own eyes post calibration

Now that I’ve completed both SDR for both oppo 205 and Xbox series X’s inputs, it’s time to move on to HDR, biggest challenge now !!

Out of the box settings for HDR already looked stunning . I took a quick picture of this scene from spears and munsil,

We can see the bright sun at the right hand corner of this pic. If the tone mapping is good, we can see the sun round and nice, clearly. Otherwise, it will disappear and be part of the sky, and will look like faded, sort of like faded together with the sky. that’s a sign of poor tone mapping

The above is another version I got online , someone else’s pic, so much loss of shadow detail to bring the sun out!

Oh yes, and it had problems showing the details in snow in the background on that horse scene when switching to 4000 nits content. So I’ll need to work on that see what it can do

I will share the same pic post HDR calibration, later so we can compare before and after .

The RGB is really different with the laser light source, very nice indeed. Best part, 20,000 hours !!

Given the controls and versatility from this pj, it’s gonna be really difficult to switch to another projector when u lose that controls. It’s just a different ball game, especially for calibrators. And yes, the controls are all working as intended. Adjustments made to each control will show u what it is doing to the picture. (Important to also establish, because some settings could be there, but it does nothing or nothing working as intended )

[desray]

Finally after all these years, more

@Ronildoq

as using BT1886 initially. Eventually a few rounds of looking, decided to go for gamma power of 2.4, and they looked assolutely stunning post calibration

This is actually the correct pre-calibration settings for SDR calibration. Always use BT1886 (equivalent to 2.35 gamma) and like you mentioned, there ain’t 2.3 gamma to begin with…2.4 gamma is usually the preferred one. Since this is a laser-based projector, use 2.4 instead of 2.3 is the right choice. Very good RGB graph - very flat. Based on the graph, I can see that the DeltaE 2000 is well below 1.5?

[Ronildoq]

Yes very Low delta errors in grayscale, well below 2. I have actually two profiles, BT1886 in expert dark and gamma 2.4 in cinema mode. So I can toggle between the two to compare. 2.4 looks nicer to me. BT1886 not as inky black, but decent as well, quite good. But if I had to calibrate again, I will go with the 2.4 , especially with laser PJ . With the previous BenQ, 2.3 looked nicer

[Ronildoq]

By the way, there are like 10 pic modes to choose from in SDR

Gaming
Standard
Vivid
Cinema
Cinema Home
Expert bright
Expert dark
Filmmaker mode
Brightest
HDR effect

The HDR effect mode is interesting

using this HDR effect picture mode, the SDR content has this HDR like effect on specific scenes. Colours not really accurate, as can be seen it is over saturated. But the pic mode itself is interesting. It makes the image pop like as if we are watching HDR content

This mode will appeal to the general consumer but not purists

Brightest is crazy bright to the extend you get eyes pain.

So ya, one more point I have missed out, the colour temperature settings on this pj, this unit itself, has a lot of green out of the box. So using the “warm” settings makes it too green and requiring lotsa correction with green. Something which I don’t like to adjust between RGB because green affects luminance

So instead, I switched to medium and the greens were down with more blues. Much more balanced. Once that is set we didn’t need to correct much on 2 point White balance.

So the default settings of “warm” did not work for me, I had to use medium, to get the best out of this unit

[Ronildoq]

Oh ya desray, quick check, you have used so many different projectors, does the JVC N7 and Sony projectors come with 21 point grayscale controls ? Or at least 11 point grayscale controls. Does the Sony laser PJ provide these controls ?

On the current Pj I’m using, we don’t even have 10 point grayscale. Just have to live with 2 points and that’s it.

I’m finding absolute value with this pj as it allows 2, 11, 21 points adjustment, very fine adjustments and normally these type of controls are only made available with high end projectors

[desray]

@Ronildoq

So ya, one more point I have missed out, the colour temperature settings on this pj, this unit itself, has a lot of green out of the box. So using the “warm” settings makes it too green and requiring lotsa correction with green. Something which I don’t like to adjust between RGB because green affects luminance

Yes, green affects the overall brightness and ultimately affects the contrast as a by product. As long as you choose a baseline setting (depending on your LG projector modes), choose one that has a good overall RGB white balance before you do your auto-cal which you’ve already did. If it’s an inherent issue related to the laser illumination, there is noting much you can do.

[desray]

@Ronildoq

Oh ya desray, quick check, you have used so many different projectors, does the JVC N7 and Sony projectors come with 21 point grayscale controls ? Or at least 11 point grayscale controls. Does the Sony laser PJ provide these controls ?

On the current Pj I’m using, we don’t even have 10 point grayscale. Just have to live with 2 points and that’s it.

I’m finding absolute value with this pj as it allows 2, 11, 21 points adjustment, very fine adjustments and normally these type of controls are only made available with high end projectors

Yes, high end projectors does have at least 10 points grayscale tracking. You might have forgotten that I’m using Lumagen to do all my calibration needs. You need finer adjustments for grayscale tracking which will lead to more accurate primaries and secondaries later for the 3D LUT calibration for colors.