AFAIK for MadVR, the amount of RAM on the Nvidia card doesn’t matter and the 3060Ti is slightly faster and you will be able to enable more advanced options on MadVR.
I think the 550W PSU should be enough. I don’t think MadVR squeezes the most power out of the GPU as it only uses a few of its computational functions.
Usually the key issue is whether you have a 4x slot on the motherboard for the Blackmagic Capture Card
3060Ti has more core for compute graphic and faster than 3060.
If you want to play PC game on 2K or 4K, i think you should go to 3080 or 4070ti. 3060 and 3070 is better for Full HD.
The power supply for 3060 it should around 650W for power optimization.
For new build definitely go for 650W minimum, but because MadVR doesn’t use all of GPU gaming functions, 3060 or 3060Ti might run fine for pure video with 550W to save money.
Also, although the 3060/3060Ti are used more for 1080p gaming at nice frame rates, they have no problem keeping up with MadVR rendering and tone mapping 4K HDR 12 bit video. You cannot enable some of the advanced options, but even with a 3090, you can’t turn on all the options and not expect some frames lost
Here’s another scene from Disney+. Bad Batch Season 2, Episode 8 “Truth and Consequence” around 2:47
LG HU810 MadVR rendering SDR 2020 
LG HU810 Calibrated HDR Game Mode LG DTM On
This scene is good because it has extreme highlight and deep black with a star field. Without MadVR, the LG blows out the bright areas on the right, while the deep space on the left of the screen is too dark. MadVR compresses the extreme dynamic range better and you can see more detail in the bright planet as well as on the ship on the left that has a star field in the background
Zooming in on the star field, you can see many more stars in the MadVR rendering
compared to LG DTM
On an OLED, its perfect without MadVR
Dear Sammy
Could you please suggest VP and Madvr setting and how to change from HDR to SDR?
I just beginner for this and try to setting up but can’t more testing due to my project was send to repair and wish to return within this month.
I started with the default settings and went from there. To me, the most important thing is to calibrate the display and measure the peak luminance using a colorimeter or other device. Only then, can you input the correct numbers into MadVR. Otherwise you have to just experiment.
SDR output is needed only for a projector, because its a low nits device and MadVR does a good job converting HDR to SDR. If you want to retain the colors in HDR BT2020, then you have to calibrate your device for BT2020 and tell MadVR to use the color space. TVs and OLED, you can leave the HDR flag on and HDR would default to BT2020.
this is really an excellent thread to enter madvr world, excellent job Sammy!
I’m planning to go down the path to setup a madvr htpc, however, prior to that, I’d like to consult @sammy on below queries:
I’m still using an ancient Epson TW8300, will madvr help to improve the picture quality?
I took a look at invader pc, mk2 lowest config as shown in picture, will this config work well with black magic mini 4K?
Many thanks in advance for your kind advice!
I don’t know the TW8300, but I think MadVR should be quite good in tone mapping 4K HDR to SDR for your projector. If it can do more than REC 709, you will have better colors if MadVR is in SDR2020.
For the HTPC, the main issue is whether the motherboard has a spare 4x slot for the Blackmagic Mini. If you use the motherboard that I used, then it will work for sure. Otherwise you have to inspect the motherboard carefully.
thanks Sammy, I did a closer look at B760M and B660M, they are almost identical for PCI-E slots, just that both PCI-E x4 and x1 slots in 760M are G4 (I presume it’s generation 4 but not 100% sure) while x4 and x1 slots in 660M are G3, as shown in below pictures. So I think I’m good, I’m considering 3060Ti version with psu 80+ gold at $1399, might be overkill a bit but the price is much cheaper than I buy all the components and build my own, as what you mentioned in previous post. May PM you for more help if I get the pc and BMD 4k mini card, hope you don’t mind to render some help to someone who is new in madvr, 
B760M:
B660M:
@desray I was just reading your new JVC NZ7 review thread and I guess we have the answer to my question back in December 
Yep, I will NOT be selling off my Lumagen RP anytime soon. I will share more when I have the time.
Thanks a lot to bro Sammy! finally I got a invader PC with 3060ti video card, a blackmagic decklink mini 4k recorder card and ROFAVEZCO 4K HDMI Splitter 1x2 HDR Dolby Vision Atmos Down Scaler ready last week, and setup my madVR rig successfully.
And it took me some time to learn displaycal and generate 3DLUT with madTPG for madVR. dispalycal works very well with madVR, generating and installing 3DLUT for madVR through displaycal is extremely simple.
Overall, I have to say it’s a very fun journey and I’m very happy to say: madVR rocks!
My projector is a 5 years old Epson TW8300W and bulb life now approaching 2400 hours, displaycal measured 27cd/m2 luminance which is quite pathetic…however, madVR is still able to work miracles on my ancient projector and the results are simply WOWs…!
In the past quite a lot of HDR10/DV movies are just not watchable in my display, and now I can sit back relax and enjoy the show. Not to exaggerate, with or without madVR is really day and night difference. you can tell from the photos below to make your own judgement.
My new bulb is coming soon next week, once the bulb is replaced, I will do a more serious 3DLUT cal and post more photos (if I have time…in past one week, I have watched more movies than previous one month, lol).
I tried BT709 and DCI-P3 3DLUT, obviously I’m not able to get good 3DLUT out of DCI-P3, which I believe TW8300 is not capable to cover P3 well, but it did generate a pretty good BT709 one. Comparing P3 3DLUT with BT709, the latter giving me more natural color performance, for example, in movie The Greatest Showman, the scene Rebecca is performing famous “Never Enough” song, her skin tone is a bit too red to my eyes in P3 but very natural in 709 (I forgot to take pictures…). Will try BT2020 3DLUT when my new bulb is here to do more comparisons.
and the ROFAVEZCO 4K HDMI Splitter is amazing, it handles DV well, HDMI handshake is very fast, with PQ selected in VP transfer function drop down list, the color and brightness for DV movie titles are great too!
some photos for you to judge (I took them very casually and prior to 3DLUT cal, so colors might be off a bit but the idea is to share with you the differences w or w/o madVR. The actual view is better than photos with madVR:
my pathetic luminance - merely 26.8cd/m2
DCI-P3 validation:
BT709 validation:
Zootopia openning without madVR
Zootopia openning without madVR (prior to 3DLUT cal so color might be bit off, after 3DLUT, I enjoyed more movies than taking photos, lol)
Zootopia scene without madVR
Zootopia scene with madVR (prior to 3DLUT cal)
spears & munsil uhd hdr benchmark disc without madVR
spears & munsil uhd hdr benchmark disc with madVR (prior to 3DLUT cal)
Bro Matrix, looks like you have been having a lot of fun and certainly your pictures show a dramatic difference. If you are getting a red push in your P3 calibration, you are probably not telling MadVR to map to P3. I calibrated to BT2020, but I believe the P3 calibration in Displaycal (I use Calman) is P3 within a BT2020 colorspace so you need to tell MadVR that you have calibrated to BT2020 and it will send the right RGB triplets to get your colors right. You can compare with the BT709 calibration by toggling MadVR BT2020 on and off, but I think you will find some more beautiful shades of greens and reds in movies that fully use BT2020. Also, do not enable the HDR flag in MadVR for projectors. This will keep the projector in SDR BT2020, which is the ideal mode since projectors output less than 100 nits and you still want the full colorspace for HDR movies.
On my LG HU810, I have one user SDR mode calibrated to BT2020 and the other one to Rec 709. My Cinema mode is BT2020 too, but all the other SDR modes are Rec 709. On some TV type video material, I prefer using the straight Rec 709 mode rather than have MadVR map the RGB triplet into BT2020.
yes bro Sammy, a lot of fun, especially after some hard work, you see the significant improvement, that is really wonderful!
not sure what you mean by not telling madVR to map to P3, when i used displaycal to generate 3DLUT for madVR for P3 colorspace, this is the setting i selected:
once I completed 3DLUT, i installed it, this is what is shown in madVR calibration page automatically, with a 3DLUT file automatically selected in DCI-P3 field:
with this configuration, I presume madVR knows for HDR material, it will call for DCI-P3.3DLUT as my display calibration, no?
when I found the skin tone is off, I fall back to 709 instead, this is the setting i used in displaycal:
this installed another BT.709 3DLUT to madVR calibration page, but then I remove P3 3DLUT to make sure madVR will only call for 709 3DLUT instead of P3 3DLUT each time for HDR material.
and yes, I didn’t activate output video in HDR format checkbox in madVR HDR page.
Bro Matrix, sorry for the late reply as I’m traveling in the US now. For me, I tell MadVR that the display is calibrated (having done it with Calman) rather than use an externally generated 3DLUT so I can’t help you there. However, I know that when you have obviously reddish skin tones (I call it red push), it is often due sending color information to a mismatched display e.g. sending BT2020 RGB triplets to a Rec 709 calibrated display.
I have different modes of my projector calibrated to either Rec 709 or BT2020. For example, in SDR, my Cinema mode is calibrated BT2020, but my Filmmaker mode is calibrated to Rec 709 using Calman. If I play HDR content converted to SDR BT2020 by MadVR in Rec 709 calibrated Filmmaker mode, I get red push and its especially obvious in black faces. The reason I calibrated to both is because for some SDR video content (as opposed to film), I get the best results bypassing MadVR and using one of my Rec 709 calibrated modes since no tone mapping is required for SDR content.
When you hit the CTRL-J function with HDR content, what colorspace is MadVR outputting? Perhaps show a screen with the red push and the CTRL-J diagnostics showing.
The only thing I can suggest is to keep it in DCI-P3 mode, and toggle the various options to see if the reddish tint disappears. I do have the report BT 2020 to display checked I think.
no worries bro Sammy, hope you enjoy your trip in US!
I plan to re-generate BT.709, DCI-P3 and BT.709 3DLUT for madVR once my new bulb is here. For now, I only tried P3 and 709.
The movie “The Greatest Showman” I tried is 4K HDR version, madVR shows it’s BT.2020 colour space and the red push is only seen on P3 3DLUT, not BT.709 3DLUT, thus I suspect it’s the P3 3DLUT calibration issue rather than colour space conversion issue.
As shown in previous post, my P3 cal results are much worse than BT.709 (in terms of Delta E), I suspect my projector is only capable to cover 90+% of BT.709, and it’s handicapped for P3, thus the colour display (particularly red) is not very accurate in P3.
I also tried to check “report BT.2020” but it seems quite buggy and cause VP to crash easily, so I unchecked it.
Will report back the direct comparison on BT.709, P3 and BT.2020 3DLUT once I get my new bulb……
Btw, the little HDMI splitter is great, it is able to pass LLDV from my Oppo 203 to black magic 4K mini recorder directly, and the handshake speed is very fast - within 1 second. Once activate “PQ” in “Transfer Function” in VP, DV movies are bright and rich in colour in my dim epson projector. I re-watched bullet train movie (DV version) over the weekend, and the picture quality is “wow”……
For S$50, the splitter is really a great “investment”
Any links where to buy this “Splitter”?
thanks in advance. cheers!!
