Arcam av/avr 5/10,11/20,21/30,31/40,41/600 owners - discussions

Agree with you Bro, but you all knew and I didn’t expect you guys to throw such comments. If someone who doesnt know then its fairly acceptable. I feel that you guys explicitly want to exploit and use this forum!

I would kindly advise that everyone here is new to you or vice versa. Some know some don’t know. Take everyone here is new. So share your own journey. We are all here to comment here and there. Be it we like it or not. Cheers

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Agree Bro, let me ignore all Negetive comments that are in my perspective and move on.

No issues found in my arcam the Engineer said that it could be a error flag from the external device that could have been disappeared after a prolonged power off.



Lolz, three fans for my Schiit Freya Plus upgraded Tubes too :smile:

So the oppo did not cause any issue to the arcam?

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I would also love to share my experience on how I was able to change the overall SABRE 9026 Pro tonality to more Tuby sound signature for my Stereo Listening.

Setup Flow ----> Arcam (AV40 Pre Processor) —>Schiit (Always at full Vol, so it works as Tube Buffer) —> Gustard P26 (set at 75DB constant) —> Coda CX Monos

Tubes from Tube Amp Doctor:
Psvane CV181-T-MII/2/6SN7GT made pair (tubeampdoctor.com)

PSVANE 6SN7-SE GLOBE, (2 tubes paired) (tubeampdoctor.com)

This is just my Pre amp Section, I use 3 Pre Amps before it goes to my Coda CX Monoblocks. The Main reason I bought these CODAs as I didnt have budget. But CODAs not not bad they run at 50W of class A before it switches to Class AB. Unfortunately, I dont have a budget to make my Lovely Revels Salon2 to sound better as CODAs didnt match my set up. I tried so many things and couldn’t change anything.

Finally I did order the Schiit Freya Plus and then Upgraded to better Tubes. As you all knew that Impedance matching in pre amp and Amps are very important. Since My CODA CX monos have 1kohm at BAL input (this is too low for any pre amp to match). You need at least 10 times compared to your output impedance of the pre amp. For e.g. if you had a pre amp of 500 ohm output, you need to have at lest 5kohm and above input impedance in your power amp.

And hence I chose Gustard P26 pre amp has 100ohms output impedance that matched with my CODA.

The Power amps with less input impedance are designed to run many speakers parallel that means they can go so low. In this case my CODAs are coupled with 36 output transistors with 150A peak current output and 900Watts at 4 ohms, 450W at 8 ohms.

Similarly the power amps with higher input impedance are designed to match with any preamps.

Finally my complicated set up (Arcam —>Schiit —> Gustard P26 —> Coda CX Monos) After adding Tube Pre amp, the sound is Wide, Open, Lush, Warm, Airy and Great Tonality and came to my preferred sound signature.

I suspect it did, cause It had some flickering issue when I collected from my friends place on his 4K TV via fiber HDMI cable. Then we changed it to normal HDMI cable it started working fine.

I suspect, the Linear Power supply (The Digital Version) might have had some issue. By the way its my assumption only. But the LPS suppose to be better, but I was a bit suspicious on the same. Cause it was behaving a bit weird in my set up too. I suspect that error flag would have caused some flickering on my system. Cause HDMI handles and includes many things from vol, data clk etc etc. So could have had some problem with the LPS, may be some voltage regulation issues.

Now, I took out the Linear Power supply now and attached its original SMPS board all seems to be fine and Fiber HDMI and all Cables working fine.

Hope that you take my advise, try not to spam repeated post on here and another thread. If all is the same it will serve no purpose. Thanks

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What is ‘error flag’ ?

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A special mark indicating that a piece of data is unusual. For example, a record might contain an error flag to indicate that the record consists of unusual, probably incorrect, data.

So in HDMI signal transmission, if there is a possible malfunctioning data from the source for e.g a data such as voltage, clock, DDC, CEC and then its sent to your target receiver and there is a possibility that it can catch those error flags on the target system as well. Sometime it gets resolved if you turn off the device and keep then disconnected for 1 day or more. That’s what happened in my system and its fixed automatically. Technically speaking, its the EDID and how the incoming data is handled by the AVP.

image

If you continue to use it with the problem, it may corrupt your EDID. When there is an EDID problem, there is usually video and audio but it is not optimal and not what is expected. The AV40 is mishandling EDID from downstream, Therefore source sends out minimal video and audio.

So I am not sure whether removing the Analog section in the Oppo had some downstream impact on the Digital output. We dont know how these LPS manufactures designed the power supply. So I decided to put back the original power supply.

I’m using the almost same LPS. I would prefer direct from oppo to my TV, audio from oppo to my AVP.

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Nice :ok_hand:. Mine was the Digital version only. No power supply 6pin output for the analog section.
oppo_203_udp_203_bluray_lps_li_1647172274_24aa650e_progressive

Since my issue is resolved, I will use the oppo video out straight to my PJ and audio to AV40.

Do share if it’s solved

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Its solved after i change back to the original SMPS power supply. All my cables including the fiber cables all fine. Scared to change back :innocent:. All fine now. Thanks a lot for your concerns. And apologies for any misunderstanding!

This is better, should have just used this. That’s why I don’t have any problem

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Looks good :+1:

Good to hear on it. What are you going to do with the LPS? Any chance of modding it?

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Bro, pls put this post in the marketplace forum. This is not the right place.

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Sure, removed