Vibration control / Decoupling - why it is critical

I came across this video recently, I thought I would share this for the benefit of everyone

This guy in the video here got it spot on, with the isolation in place, one should not look at the frequency response to determine its effectiveness, simply because the isolation is not suppose to colour the sound in any way

Recently I had these Gaia 3 installed onto the footers of one of the Dali speakers , they are very effective indeed.

As I continue my journey this year with improving the stereo aspect on my system, I will be getting one of these for the MA speakers and we shall see how effective this is.
Anyone else care to share your experiences with the Gaia footers ?

I have found that it is very effective in a sense that it doesn’t transfer any vibration to the floor, nor vibration making its way to the speaker cabinets, very effective indeed .

My current speakers are on spikes, and I can see the problem with spikes

Updates along the way

I guess one of these days, I will try out some of these enhancement stuff that you recommend.

Yea it is worth it.

It is similar to the townshend vibration pod, the speakers are like wobbly after the installation but it has a curve like mixed material (not sure what material,suspect it’s got sorbothane)that provides suction to the ground and stabilises the speakers

Zoom in to the 30 second mark on the video, and you will get what I mean

I will share more details here, once I get mine in mid November

Nice read, for those who have yet to attempt vibration control

I will attempt the objective measurements with the speakers on spikes and ball bearing, vs on the wooden structure and granite base, vs the upcoming Gaia 2 to be installed on the MA GX300

I will share this information here, once that is complete and also share my views on how it sounds with and without

Since the MOnitor Audio uses M10 screws, and M10 screws doesn’t come with the original package , I have to wait patiently for 2 weeks for the special order. The set was purchased from our local distributor absolute sound

Just received the Gaia 2 footers with the correct M10 thread for the monitor audio gx300 speakers plinth

Quickly opened and had a quick look inside

The footers look elegant and premium indeed

Required a bit of time to get the installation done

Had to flip the speakers upside down for installation, and the word isoacoustics should be following the direction of the drivers .

Turning the screws around to find that sweet spot took some time

Finally got all four hooked up

I removed the spikes and tucked it away into the store room

Side views as can be seen from above

Front view . This time round, I didn’t toe in the speakers , I had it forward facing

Quickly, I dialed in the speakers using this special clip , to find the best stereo image with placement

I initially went with a 5 degree toe in, using the app KRK audio tools , to determine how much to toe in the speakers

This is a very easy to use app, that allows you to toe in the speakers correctly on both sides

After having a quick chat with the guys, I decided not to toe in the speakers

Then I fired the system up to quickly listen to a few familiar songs

There appears to be very nice improvement with instruments placed in the soundstage . But somehow I lose the width, that I normally get with the toe in. There are pros and cons with the placement of toe in, finally I decided not to toe in.

Just so u know, this is being compared(toe in vs no toe in) with the MA speakers placed 3.6m apart, so as not to block the 135” screen

The recommended placement from MA is to have the speakers 90cm off the back wall, and ideally 1.8-3m apart. Unfortunately I have to bend the rules here . That is the reason I went with the toe in initially on the previous set up

It has been recommended on the MA manual not to toe in, or slight toe in. ( but nothing is mentioned on what slight toe in refers to) , as in How much is slight toe in? 5,10,15,20 degrees ? Anyway, doesn’t matter much as I decided not to to toe in this time

Next I pulled up a few charts to look at the frequency response of both speakers

They looked alright, sum in phase and time since they are equidistant, no issues whatsoever there

Pulling up the RT60 on the pair, I could see nice uniformed decay from both speakers close to 200ms. The only problem is the left speakers, which have a bit of bass issues below 200hz

Below 100hz, everything will be handled by the line array woofers . So that is good , no problem

Just for reference, this is the RT60 on the previous Toe in MA

The below is the clarity graph from the pair on speech intelligibility

The below is the previous measurements with toe in but before the footers

Managed to squeeze in some time to fix up the second Gaia 2 for the surround speakers

I didn’t attempt any measurements to look at the energy before and after the footers to demonstrate the benefits of the Gaia. But if I had to gauge how much improvement it brought to the system, it’s about 30%. Quite significant

It’s like you are really just listening to the speakers only this time

The soundstage is much wider ( maybe partly no more toe in) , but the higher frequencies are slightly rolled off

As you can see the effects of toe in below

Vs the effect of no toe in below

Concluding that it affects the tonal balance of the direct sound= more toe-in equals more high frequency energy since tweeters becoming directional at higher frequencies.

Yes and by the way, once they are perfectly time aligned, they will also sum in phase with a perfect +6db gain. Can be seen above when measuring both L+R speakers at the same time

It is no different for stereo as well

Heading down to my uncles place, he uses Dali speakers and for his centre speakers, it sits on a normal wooden console.

So we will be testing it out with various isolations

Today, I’ll share the results

This is what I have at the moment, so will compare

We will use the test movie clip, the age of adaline to test the male vocals with and without isolation

Ok quick fun afternoon today, testing the footers for a centre speaker placed on the wooden console , full range, with mains and surrounds turned off, subwoofers turned off. Only centre channel playing

We tested the centre channel using a few different material, voice of Optimus prime, age of adaline, Prometheus

First we used this version, divini DD3 footers

Then we tested with rubber and spikes

Then we went with ball bearing base with sorbothane

We also tried, just sorbothane, and just ball bearing footers in the process

Then we tried placing another piece of shock absorbers material from Japan Home, cost $2 for 4 pieces

Finally we tested with nothing on, just speakers on the console .

The results were unanimous, it was pretty clear with the comparisons on the same clip back and forth with the same volume

From the above exercise, with the centre speakers in full range, it was easy to tell having the footers on and removed

The conclusions were

  1. Divini DD3 footers
  2. Spikes with rubber with normal base
  3. Sorbothane with ball bearing footers
  4. No isolation/japan home shock absorbers

The divini uses 2 rubber rings on each side, and heavy metal providing mass in the middle part

The rubber with spikes, has similar mass, though the base/pucks uses some type of metal , it was surprisingly good too

Then came sorbothane, not ideal places beneath the speakers

The same with the ball bearing footers with sorbothane, they were not as effective as the divini and the rubber with spikes

Finally, the Japan home shock absorbers, basically does nothing ! No difference having it on or not.

So there it is, we didn’t really compare others or some other high end footers etc, one thing we have observed, MASS in between helps a great deal

Hi Bryan,

For the conclusion 1 - 4, could you put an estimated cost(footers) to performance for the sake of comparison.

Thanks.

  • Divini DD3 footers - $80 4 pieces
  • Spikes with rubber with normal base -$20 4 pieces
  • Sorbothane with ball bearing footers - $ 33 for the ball bearing base of 4, $15 for sorbothane 4 pieces $48 total
  • No isolation/japan home shock absorbers - $2

More testing availble for those who are keen

Here is a link to DL the LEDR files

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DEkZtHEgUS2F_H0_Wi6cbgLWLDHFZZyn/view?usp=sharing

How to use the files

A quick guide :slight_smile:

UP paths, Left and Right. The sound should begin at about eye level and then travel as straight as possible up to one or two meters above the loudspeaker. Use the Left and Right paths to check for symmetry. If the sound does not rise up from your loudspeakers, try using high quality headphones instead. If headphones work, your loudspeakers and/or listening environment are at fault. If not, the pinna transform embedded into the test signal is possibly too different from your own pinna transfer function; the LEDR test will then fail in this particular case.

OVER. The sound should begin at one speaker and travel in a smooth arc to the other speaker, from left to right and then return back to the left. The arc should be unbroken, smooth and symmetrical. The top of the rainbow should be as high as the Up signals.

LATERAL. This signal tests for conventional left-to-right stereo imaging. Since a speaker’s acoustic center may not be its physical center, you should use the Lateral test to adjust your speakers until the sound traverses a 60 degrees angle from the listener’s point of view.

BEHIND. This signal moves from behind the left to behind the right, then back behind the left again.

Further referrals

Enjoy !

Quick zoom into the pics and how it should sound! This is what we need. A lot of times, somebody tells you, oh it should sound like this sound like that, you should not/ should depending on your room and speakers.

And you go round scratching your head, errr… so do what ah ??

With the test tones, u take away the guessing

The image for the lateral tone , should sound like the one below :

The “UP Tones” should sound like the below

Then you have the “Over Tone” that should sound like this

There you go, no need to guess, place the speakers, rinse and repeat for best placement

As for centre imaging, use the 9 Tok Tok Tok version above, that will get you right on spot with 5th Tok Tok sound being at dead centre

Next up will dive in to measurements and why I went with toe in on speakers

Here is a chart I came across this morning, it’s like” One Chart to explain them all”

The ear piercing region is indeed in the 8-10khz region as seen on chart

Enjoy

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Great chart…simple understanding. Our human auditory perception is anywhere between 20Hz to 20Khz. The 8 - 10Khz range is the upper treble region…as we aged, especially in the late 40s onwards, some of us may not be able to hear higher freq starts from 15Khz and above. Some may start as soon as 12Khz. For this group, Atmos effects will more treble presence will not have a good effect. If you are above 45 yrs old and still enjoy Atmos effects, count your blessings for it may be short-lived.

I did a test recently, can only hear up to 14khz, the Mrs has better hearing about 15-16khz

But with ear piece, I can hear it much better, maybe super ear piece , up to 16khz

BTW, the new Apple AirPods Pro sounds very good

:point_down: Test your ears… and see if you can hear the sounds relative to your age … ★

Touch the Cant hear button when you stop hearing the sound.

An interesting initiative…:point_down:

Press ‘press can’t hear ‘ when u cannot hear the sound anymore

:four_leaf_clover::blush:All must do this test…

Enjoy testing

Mine is around 15,200hz in my my last test using a pair of cans.

1 Like

Check out how this fella does his cable isolation using diy stackable cable hangers


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