I am overall pleased with the results and I am happy to recommend this sub for your HT setups.
- Choosing your Drivers?
I would recommend Dayton UM18 22 (Cheap and best), if you are really an Subwoofer enthusiast. Dayton UM18 22 can give you a best performance based on my personal experience with one of my friend @kennyluck2000.
Peerless Drivers was recommended by one of my HT Friend @Brightbladesg. Then, I decided to go with Peerless Tymphany STW350. The reason behind is that it resembles SVS PB16 which has 8 inch voice coil which provides better linear excursions when there is a huge amount of shaking is necessary. Peerless STW350 comes with 7.5inch voice coils and even the current 32 inch subwoofer has only 6 inch voice coil.
Choosing your Amp?
After deciding the drivers, I was looking for an amp to drive these beasts and finally found an amp from China that was recommended by my friend @kennyluck2000 and I decided to go with another brand of the same class D model amp from Sinbosen DSP22000q (22000 Watts, 4 channels).
|8 ohm Stereo Power (RMS)||2500WX4|
|4 ohm Stereo Power (RMS)||4650WX4|
|8 ohm Bridged Power (RMS)||9500WX2|
|4 ohm Bridged Power (RMS)||23750WX2|
|Frequency Response(+o/-0.3dB,1W/8Ω):||20 Hz - 34 kHz|
|THD 20 Hz - 20 kHz for 1W:||<0.1%|
|Signal-to-Noise Ratio:||>112 dBA|
|Channel separation (Crosstalk) at 1 kHz :||>70 dB|
|Input Connectors (per channel):||3 pin XLR, electronically balanced|
|Output Connectors (per channel):||Binding Posts 2-pole|
|TourClass Protection:||ACL, IGM, AutoRamp, short circuit, DC voltage, turn on/off transient, current inrush, sub/ultrasonic input|
|Operating voltage, 220V / 110V nominal:||180-240 V / 90-130 V selectable|
|Voltage Gain(dB):||23, 26, 29, 32, 35, 38, 41, 44 dB selectable|
|Input impedance:||20 kOhm|
|Level adjustment (per ch.):||Front panel potentiometer, 31 positions detented from -inf to 0 dB|
- Choosing your wood for DIY. Baltic Birch or MDF or HDF?
HDF is better, but I coudn’t find HDF in Singapore, only MDF and Baltic Birch plywood are available in Singapore. Baltic birch would be better, but I chose MDF as there is no man power.
- Choosing your Wood glue?
Based on my research and after some bonding strength tests with MDF, I found TiteBond-II seems better in terms of strength and bonding time. You really need some more bonding time to align and fix your wood Clamps.
- Do I need an wood clamp?
Its better, cause the glue will be slippery after applying on the bonding surfaces.
- What type of polyfill do I require?
Polyester batting is better and I applied 2 layers of it to have a low resonance. Dont add too much if your subwoofer is low sensitivity. Peerless are ultra low sensitive drivers and you really need huge amount of power to shake them if you build an Sealed SUB.
- Choosing between sealed or Ported?
It really depends on your preference. We can never say that my bass it the best bass in the world. Each and every persons carry a diff opinion about the bass. What I believe is that, as long as you as an individual, you achieved the bass you preferred and then its enough. I have tested many Subs and visited lots of my friends place and everyone’s bass is different and I love everyone’s effort to achieve the bass!
Ok, back to the topic, my suggestion would be, if you have larger room, make a ported sub with the minimum of atleast 4 to have a best feel. in my opinion, ported are easy to drive and high efficient and louder (High SPL) than the sealed ones but you need to work hard on the room treatment to get the good bass out of it.
For the Sealed Subs, its hard to drive and accurate compared to ported and again depending on the design as well. but both sealed and ported has its own pros and cons. If you have a smaller room then go for a sealed one with less treatments.
- What type of Screws?
I have shared the image on the post, please refer to this.