MadVR HTPC Enthusiasts' Thread

bro Bryan, I thought it’s madVR’s magic to convert HDR to SDR with tone-mapping, compressed 1000nit/4000nit or even 10000nit HDR movie materials to fit in the low nit display’s capable range, no?

but I do agree with you that above might not be a fair comparison. it makes more sense to me to compare the same HDR movie with TV/projector’s HDR on (if without tone-mapping capability) or TV/projector’s own HDR native tone-mapping enabled (if available) with madVR tone-mapping to tell which one is more superior, for example, JVC’s own tone-mapping vs. madVR’s tone-mapping or LG HU810’s HDR or own tone-mapping (I’m not sure whether it is available but it seems quite commonly available in LG’s OLED TV), like what bro Sammy has done in the beginning of the thread.

I can try to play some HDR/DV movies with my epson TW8300’s HDR mode enabled and with correct colorspace selected (I watched such HDR movies before, most of them are quite bad, and definitely not as good as what madVR offers). I think S&M demo disc could be a good material to do the comparison, and it should be a more meaningful comparison than comparing same movie HDR version with madVR vs. SDR version.

For the SDR version on a Blu-ray disc, the studio (i.e., Paramount, Universal) tone maps the disc professionally with a Colorist in charge to compress the original 4,000-10,000+ nits movie into SDR’s range, which is about 100 nits, before pressing the 1080p SDR disc. Theoretically, the color & shades should be as perfect as possible, but its not sharp because its in 1080p with the Rec 709 gamut. HDR colors use the BT2020 gamut, so the picture would be more vibrant, especially the greens.

MadVR on the other hand, examines each HDR frame and tone maps it i.e., it compresses the high nit image into about 100 nits for a projector, so the perceived dynamic range is preserved. Essentially the AI of MadVR doing what the professional Colorist does. Whether MadVR does it better than the studio, depends on how much effort the studio put in and in some ways the intent of the film’s producer. MadVR always makes the image look good and contrasty and brings out shadow detail, whether or not the producer intended it :rofl: so you always get eye candy. However, with the HDR file, you get the extra colors from BT2020 and the sharpness of 4K video compared to the Blu Ray 1080p disc.

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Morning bro Keai, yes I wanted to ask u to do exactly that. For the exact same comparison u have made above. It will not look drastically different like the image above. So for u to try and understand what exactly is the benefit of using madvr. The drastic difference is because of the incorrect colour space. If u try a SDR image vs hdr image with madvr, it will not look so drastically different.

The issue here is the PJ. The way the Pj handles tone mapping with hdr content and the EOTF curve. They struggle with hdr signal

Most pj can do well with SDR content using the gamma curve. Hence the reason I have asked u to try and compare the SDR version vs the hdr version using madvr.

U will be surprised how good the SDR image will look without madvr… so that is the purpose. The magic doesn’t lie in the madvr, but more on Pj not being able to handle hdr signal with EOTF curve as good

The question then is, would it have been a better choice to upgrade the projector or stick to the same and use the madvr to display it in sdr2020?

I remember Jag from xtremeplace, has been using his Sony projector this way from the beginning. He told me he felt the projectors cannot handle hdr as well. And he was bang on correct again. That was like 6 years ago…

The other issue with matrix16888 Epson TW8300 is that the earliest Epson projectors that implemented HDR would turn on a color filter whenever it got a HDR signal. This color filter would halve the brightness of the projector making it almost unusable in HDR. This seems apparent with the difference in the brightness of his images without MadVR.

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Morning bro Bryan, yes, I will do a fair comparison this weekend, whether the differences are that drastic or not, let’s walk and see, lol.

In fact to understand how good a tone mapping algorithm is, the best way should be comparing against a reference or master monitor which is capable of handling brightness at 10000nits (might not be readily available atm), 4000nits (like Dolby Pulsar) or 1000nits, depends on what is the max nits the movie is mastered. But reference monitor is way too expensive to reach. And it is the job for developers like Mathias (a.k.a. Madshi) to prove how perfect their tone-mapping algo is.

For me as a consumer (or HT fan), I only care how much improvement the tone mapping algorithm brings to me. Epson TW8300 is a very old projector, which is not able to handle HDR well (actually most of the projectors are not able to handle HDR well due to low nits), so tone-mapping is a must to projector users as it can compress HDR movies to fit in low nit range for projector to handle properly.

The beauty of madVR is: it offers many options/solutions for different type of projectors (be it 50nits, 100nits or much higher) in different environments (bat cave, less light controlled room, living room, etc) to achieve the best possible results. Having said that, though Mathias is very persistent to follow director’s intent when he develops madVR, the end results may vary much or even deviate from director’s intent for different users, as madVR is so flexible and tunable. I’m still learning how to tune madVR to achieve the picture quality I like, it’s not an easy task without fully understanding all the options madVR offers in different builds but the way Mathias implements it makes the learning curve very steep (it’s inevitable because PC version of madVR is always in beta mode, and unlikely to commercialise due to madVR Envy already in the market). So far I’m pretty happy with what I’m getting out of madVR, it offers me a tone-mapping which my handicapped projector does not offer.

Another argument is: why not just watch SDR movies without madVR, since the projector is not capable of displaying HDR well. Well, that’s not an option unless I’m willing to settle with 1080P, as most of 4K movies nowadays are either in HDR or DV format… Giving the option of investing merely $1.5k on DIY madVR pc build, I’m able to use my ancient projector to enjoy 4K HDR movies, why not. Not forgetting on top of tone-mapping, madVR also offers many other tunable features to further improve the picture qualities.

Upgrading projector is not what I’d like to do for the time being, I’m limited to short throw projectors due to short throw ratio required in my HT room. I would not expect a huge improvement with the upgrade vs. my current projector with madVR. I’d like to get a JVC, but they don’t fit in my room unfortunately……. :frowning:

bro dont worry about it. i was just letting you know that playing the hdr10 file to compare the image with madvr vs without is incorrect because of the incorrect colour space used. No doubt that Madvr is a good tool to help Projectors that cant handle hdr signal well. Not disputing this. i wanted to let you know that if you had wanted to compare, you should use a (SDR file 4k) vs (4k HDR10 with madVR) to understand the true benefits of Madvr. The above image doesnt do justice to the 4K SDR image. The original 4K SDR file will not look like that on your Epson…

You have also made a solid point, exactly what Jag told me before many years ago. Why all the HDR when in the end, everything is then compressed with reduced dynamic range and displayed in SDR using the gamma curve? isnt that back to square one? he told me the exact same thing when 4k just launched 6 years back.Of course back then i had no idea, so i just listened and nod my head… lol… Interesting question i see all the time from Projector owners…

Here is a good article for anyone keen to understand the difference, a brighter image in exchange for compressed/over processed image.

A good read and understanding… Bright doesnt necessarily translate to better…

Keai, are you getting MadVR to map to SDR BT2020 or 709? It crossed my mind that the Epson color filter gets engaged for wider color gamut, which is what reduces brightness by half.

very nice article, thanks for sharing bro Bryan, it helps me to digest and summarize what I read through from page 500 to 750 in past one month plus (still got 60+ pages to go) in this super informative thread mproving Madvr HDR to SDR mapping for projector (No Support Questions).

English is not my mother tongue and this thread does not allow any supporting questions asked, plus the info in many of the posts in this thread are so overwhelming, it’s extremely painful for me to finish 250 pages of reading. But this really opens up a totally new world to me in terms of tone mapping. And through all these learnings, I roughly know what a fair comparison means, I’m just too lazy to do it in a more appropriate manner and chose to randomly post some screenshots which I can easily snap, lol, thanks Bryan to force me to face it, haha. But I do enjoy the conversation, we learn faster through the open sharing and discussion, that’s why this hobby is so exhausting, but full of fun.

When I mentioned madVR is very tunable, below two graphs (from the article shared by Bryan) help to elaborate my point: madVR custom curve allows user to create their own tone-mapping curves for different brightness level based on user’s actual DPL (Display Peak Luminance), and the algo calculates the best tone-mapping values for those scenes with brightness (FALL) fall in between the preset brightness levels. So it’s really up to user to tweak all the options offered by madVR, to achieve their preferences. I’m still learning how to create my own best curves. In the latest build, madVR also offers more powerful, auto-math-calculation-capable algo curves (for example, mercury, mars, pluto etc) with different punch settings to simplify tone mapping curve creation for users (unfortunately, for those users with VP, we can only use up to build 134, as madVR stopped VP support from build 135 onwards).

How does madVR get tone mapping done? I quote what Mathias explained in one of the posts for those who are interested to know how complex the process is:

Let me try to explain the math:

Tone mapping mainly compresses the brightness of each pixel in a non-linear way, right? And the non-linear way is defined by the TM curve (e.g. saturn). However, talking about this on a high level is one thing, actually implementing it is another. For example, you would think that since we want to reduce the brightness of each pixel, we would simply take the YCbCr signal, run the Y value through our TM curve and be done with it, right? Sadly, no. A long time ago, when madVR started doing tone mapping, I had offered this as an option, it was then called “scientific tone mapping”, but it wasn’t very well liked.

Today madVR works like this: As a first step, we calculate the brightness of a pixel. Then we run it through the TM curve. Then we take the input and output of the TM curve to calculate a “brightness compression factor”. And then we actually apply the brightness compression. So basically we have 3 stages. But how do we calculate the brightness of each pixel? There are many options. And how do we actually apply the brightness compression? Again, several options.

The “Lum method” basically defines the first stage of this process, namely how to calculate the brightness of each pixel. For example, the “stim” Lum method simply uses the Y value. Or the “max” Lum method uses “max(R, G, B)” as the brightness of each pixel. So these are different ways to calculate the brightness of each pixel, and which method we choose has a strong effect on how much brightness compression various pixel colors get. For example, when using the “stim” method, a full white pixel (235,235,235) gets a lot of brightness reduction, but a full blue pixel (16,16,235) gets only very little brightness compression, because blue only contributes very little to Y. In contrast to that, when using the “max” method, actually a full white pixel and full blue pixel get exactly the same brightness compression! I think that very nicely explains why the Lum method makes such a big difference! So which Lum method is the best? We can only find out by actually trying/testing. Really, anything goes. E.g. “lum1” does this: “0.678 * G + 0.322 * max(R, B)”. Because anything goes, we can also create a “mix” of any of the existing Lum methods. So e.g. if you like Sep and Max2, we could blend them to 50% or so.

Which method of calculating the brightness of a pixel does Dolby recommend? I’m not really sure, to be honest. I think they might just use “I” (from ICtCp), which should be very similar to the madVR “stim” method. But is this the best method? I doubt it.

But add to this, we have the 3rd stage of the math, which is how to actually apply the compression. Again, there are several options: You could just reduce Y, or you could multiply the RGB value with the brightness compression factor. Or you could reduce I (in ICtCp). At some point I offered all these for you guys to choose, and after some tests, we decided to use ICtCp, which I believe Dolby also uses.

But then there’s actually stage 4, which looks at pixels which (after tone mapping) are too bright and too saturated to fit into the output gamut. So for these, we have to decide how much brightness vs how much saturation we reduce. Which is what the “highlight sat” option defines. And this 4th stage also has an effect on the vectorscopes. As does using ICtCp instead of YCbCr or RGB for brightness reduction.

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Interesting! No wonder they need a relatively powerful Nvidia CPU

bro Sammy, I map to 709 for the time being. Reason being: I tried to create 3DLUT with DisplayCal for P3 and 709 separately, the result for P3 is pretty bad, the coverage is merely 70% IIRC, while 709 is much better. So I stopped adventuring into BT2020, which is more challenging than P3, and settle with 709 atm.

I’m still very new to 3DLUT cal, so it might be due to my poor calibration technique or limited knowledge to perform a proper cal to obtain better results. Once I complete reading on madVR, I will spend some time on DisplayCal and ArgyllCMS before another try on 3DLUT cal for P3 or BT2020.

Any advice for me will be welcome!

yes, the more I get to know madVR, the more impressed I’m on this masterpiece, there are tons of work behind the scene, and I’m very interested to follow the thread to know how it was created/developed.

I think your approach is sound. My previous BenQ projector had the ability to accept BT2020 with the color filter off. Although that reduced the color volume, the resulting punch from the brighter image made HDR so much more pleasant to watch. Fortunately my current LG HU810 doesn’t need a color filter as it does something with the laser to get the colors.

I also recall when the early Epson HDR projectors came out like the 5040UB, which is similar to yours, reviewers struggled to calibrate it in HDR and these guys were ISF certified calibrators. None of them achieved an acceptable result. So, its definitely not you.

It was a big community effort especially JAVS and others who watched movies and fed back to Madshi issues in processing, which he then fixed. Interestingly, these guys are now helping out the Lumagen folks and @desray has noticed dramatic improvements in Lumagen’s tone mapping already. So, in a way, its really due to the AVSForum community that MadVR got this good.

glad to know the limitation probably not just me, the projector also plays a part, lol, nevertheless, i will remove “me” factor from the equation later.

yes, madVR wont be as good without many AVS guys’s help, to name a few: Javs, Neo-XP, Fer15, manni, quietvoid, Austonrush, and also aron7awol - if you play BEQ, you got to be very familiar with this name, lol

Some observations from Bryan’s excellent article related to our discussion on Keai’s TW8300

:point_up: This sounds like the P3 mode on Epson projectors that drops the light output by 50%

So, the best solution is as below :point_down:

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Old projectors are not HDR friendly, I regret getting 1.0 gain screen, should go for higher gain one, 100nits or above is definitely helpful……mine is merely 50nits (this is with new bulb, only 30nits with old one)

Gain of 1.0 - 1.3 is fine for 4K HDR content as it is a good ballpark to maintain a good balance of image uniformity and good viewing axis.

At 50 nits with a new lamp is the bare minimal to watch HDR content. Even with my JVC laser projector, I can only output around 91 nits max using high laser mode albeit the fan noise can be quite audible if the projector is locates near to the MLP. Currently I’m using mid laser mode which sports a 83 nits. With Lumagen Radiance Pro DTM engaged, the HDR image is pretty good. Can’t complain.

Your screen is not the issue here. You just need a better projector that can output a consistent lumens over time and lamp based projector will drop in lumens over time.

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The 50nits is with natural mode, natural = BT709 and no color filter, if I’m not wrong, Digital Cinema and Cinema use a color filter to achieve BT2020, as what bro Sammy mentioned, It causes the loss of light output significantly (about 40-50%), so even with new bulb, it is almost not suitable for HDR.

Change to a brighter projector will definitely benefit a lot, but JVC, which is what I’m very interested to get, is not an option now, and JVC is also not super bright, so I lost the interest to upgrade the projector.

Screen on the other hand, can go up real high gain to get high luminance, which is what my projector lack of, and my projector is placed on a rack, quite close to the center of the screen, which is quite ideal for high gain screen…….but too late, it’s almost impossible to change screen too, it’s so hard to sell a 2nd hand screen.

I will just give the screen away than to sell in the secondary market. Don’t waste your time. Just discard or give to someone. Let me ask you what screen gain do you think is the most ideal for your situation?

Unless the color filter does not affect the light output by almost 40%, one should ask whether it is necessary to a premium for something that rarely have content that goes beyond BT2020.

The reason why I chose NZ7 that does not come with a filters not just saving me a substantial amount but also knowing for the fact that I will sacrifice too much light output if I use filter. JVC color filter is always required in order to expand the color gamut but it isn’t something that one should put too much emphasis on when considering JVC NZ series imo.

:grimacing:

Happy for you, the motivation to set things right is high, and I do agree the journey is painful. That is why we have the saying, “no pain, no gain”

I’m glad you are enjoying every bit of experience finding out what works best in your given situation, and not give up! Kudos !

This is the fun part with this hobby, there is always something new we are constantly learning…

Enjoy the journey…… :muscle:t2:

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