Building A New Home And A Home Theatre Den

For stereo speakers setup, there is usually a sweet spot in terms of separation and toe in angle. This is related to the off axis response and directivity of a given speaker design.

For a given speaker, if they are placed too far apart eg a small bookshelf placed 5m apart and no toe in, can imagine there will be a ‘hole’ in the center of the sound stage.

Speakers with smooth and even directivity and off axis response will have a better center image and can be placed wider apart, all things being equal.

Does it mean the GXC300 also required 90cm of space behind?
The AT screen will need to be about 1.3m from the wall.

Good video talking about the design considerations going into a HT design.

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I have to responded to your Q in your odd shape HT room, I think it is better we take it there

Some additional room build tips:

Just a little something to share… choose where you place the condenser and do check it’s dimensions. Even the quietest one make noise and emit hot air. If it’s next to your bedroom, some may be affected by the din. Some condensers are pretty big and can block your window view.
Also consider how hard is it to access it and service it.
Don’t site it too far from your blowers as this decreases the cooling efficiency.

Of all your home renovation plans, the electric / cabling plan is probably the most relevant to a HT enthusiast:
You can talk to experts, and get the earthing right.
Using a separate DB for your HT den if possible with a higher rated isolator.
If you can get a higher power supply to the home that will be nice.
It will have many overlays

  • lights
  • plugs
  • LAN
  • other installations

Some bros use better power cables and LAN cables for this area. If cost is no object I’ll wire up with the best, but we all live within our constraints…

You mean you renovate your den since my last visit?

Well I did huge “reno” to my place as well after some valuable feedbacks from those who visited. So far pretty satisfying results!

If you have smart switches, be very very careful as it’ll emit the frequency that will cause some noise to your speakers even if your power amp is in off state

Ah no bro, I’ve been putting together some info to help others. Learn from my own experience cheers :slight_smile:

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Procella Reference demo room with SMT V wings.

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https://www.facebook.com/Drahmoune-Archi-designer-2095365424038302/photos/pcb.2861741850733985/2861738874067616
All about lights and designs

Wow, procella is using SMTs! Very nice, last round I demoed the procella speakers very good for HT as well

This was pretty basic but useful:
https://www.audiophysic.com/en/rules-about-positioning/

Home owners tend to focus on the aesthetics first, but sound is an essential element, especially when people are living and working in the same place.

Having the sound of traffic disrupt your sleep or neighbours complain about the television volume while you are watching Netflix late at night are not ideal situations.

So, plan for soundproofing and room acoustics, especially if you live near a busy road or in a dense residential area.

There is a difference between the two, says Mr Edric Hwang, co-founder of acoustic-focused design studio Ehka F.

“Soundproofing refers to the prevention of sound transmission from one space to another, like the din of roadworks while you’re indoors,” he says. “Acoustics, on the other hand, refers to the amount of reverberation or echoing that can be heard within a room when one is speaking or playing music.”

Both are equally important during resting and working periods.

Mr Hwang says: “When you’re in a room with proper acoustic treatment, instead of being distant and ‘echo-ey’, your voice will be clearer and easier for others to focus on during a conference call.”

Improving the sound in your home is easy when you plan ahead and use the right materials.

Applying soundproofing

Soundproofing a room takes planning, as most solutions require renovation.

1. Replace hollow-core doors or add seals

Are you still able to hear the TV even though the door is closed?

Doors in standard Housing Board (HDB) flats have hollow cores that let vibrations and, therefore, sound in. You can remedy this by replacing them with solid-core ones, which will cost between $1,200 and $1,800, depending on the size.

For an immediate, less expensive solution, adding top and bottom seals to existing doors can block sound. Invest in aluminium ones; rubber and foam are less effective.

2. Replace regular windows with soundproofed ones

Replacements can start at $2,400 a window, but they can be a good investment if you live next to a busy road or a train track.

Mr Hwang says: “Many HDB-approved window contractors can provide soundproofing solutions.”

Mr Hwang says wooden floors typically reverberate less and have less echoes than concrete or tiled floors. PHOTO: THELONIUS INTERIOR CONCEPT & DESIGN

Improving acoustics

This is essential for areas of rest or work, where you do not want noise to reverberate. Compared with soundproofing, the renovation process is minimal.

1. Damp sound with soft furnishings or acoustic panels

Damping or reducing resonance in a room can be as simple as adding a thick rug or curtains as these absorb or damp sound well.

In noisier areas, you may need sound-absorbing panels such as the Oddlaug ones by Ikea.

You can also get custom ones that cost between $220 and $450 a panel from companies such as Ehka F. These can be easily added to walls with minimal or no renovation.

2. Opt for wooden flooring if you are renovating

Mr Hwang says wooden floors typically reverberate less and have less echoes than concrete or tiled floors.

He advises hiring contractors who specialise in acoustics to effectively treat and soundproof a home, as the materials and skills needed are different from those used in a standard renovation.

Wow see this guy, he built it as line source … 15x

Here is what his comments were

Line arrays at max height now
15 x 4 ohm in parallel/series configuration giving a total 6.6 ohm
Line source benefits to 4 kHz covering the fundamentals of most musical instruments with upper harmonics being first point (closest to ear) at any given listening height.Not perfect but damn good fun and far better than other speakers I own/ owned
Superb imaging and awesome dynamics.
8 more pairs of wood cone to match bottom 7 and these monsters will be complete
100db sensitivity, 450w power handling.
Sounding lovely with 7 watt monoblocks

Line source speakers… definitely a consideration

Elsewhere , this is termed as “CBT”

CBT which stands for Constant Beamwidth Transducer is a loudspeaker line array theory that provides extremely even coverage and flat frequency response at all locations in the listening room with a system that has broadband constant‐ directivity (CD).

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Heaters :
Buy something simple with less functions
More important is to site it well so you can service or change it
Assess if each toilet needs one or will you share
Longer pipe runs mean inefficiency
Most of the brands in the market are alright. I use Joven, but Smith, AOS, etc all fine.
Personally I would do away with the frills and focus on durability and simplicity.

Piping:
I’ll suggest larger calibre pipes to give you better flow.
Instant heaters work fast, are easy to replace but kill the flow a lot more than storage heaters.

https://www.facebook.com/craftypanda/videos/3049187641980324/